The Journey Archive

Today is the big day. I have announced I was leaving my job to pursue a dream: Montreal to Argentina on a bike!

A look into the motivations behind a 20,000km journey.

Preparation of a motorcycle trip that will last for more than 6 months and on a distance of over 20000 km is not made lightly.

A detailed look at the aftermarket accessories and equipment added to the BMW R1200GSA for the 20,000km journey.

Securing passage between Panama and Colombia on the Stahlratte sailboat to cross the infamous Darién Gap.

Health precautions, vaccines, and medications required for a 6-month journey through Central and South America.

A look at the tools and maintenance skills required to remain autonomous during a 20,000 km journey.

A limited selection of critical spare parts and supplies to handle mechanical issues and routine maintenance every 5000 km.

Choosing the right gear to face heat, cold, and rain over 6 months of travel.

High-quality, lightweight gear selection for camping and multi-day hiking across 25,000 km.

Finding the balance between versatile technical gear and casual wear for a 6-month journey.

Selecting the right gadgets for communication, navigation, and capturing memories while keeping everything protected from the elements.

Finalizing border documentation, digital navigation strategies, and the financial plan just 3 days before departure.

Crossing the USA in a 3,200 km sprint from Montreal to Austin, dealing with the first mechanical glitches and a full maintenance stop.

Crossing the border at Laredo, surviving the chaos of Monterrey traffic, and celebrating Independence Day in the Pueblo Magico of Santiago.

Exploring the mountain roads of Galeana and conquering the unique challenge of entering the isolated village of Real de Catorce via a horse-drawn tunnel.

Discovering the unexpected colonial beauty of Zacatecas and preparing for the legendary Route 40 in Durango.

Conquering the legendary Route 40 ‘Espinoza del Diablo’ from the mountains to the coast, and settling into the historic charm of Mazatlán.

Crossing the agave fields of Tequila, discovering the vibrant streets of Guadalajara, and reaching Leon while managing long-term logistics.

Falling in love with the subterranean tunnels, vertical alleys, and vibrant colors of Guanajuato.

Crossing the mountains to San Miguel de Allende, immersion in an expatriate community, and a major decision to move up the Colombia crossing.

A hectic entry into Guatemala, exploring the historic city of Antigua, and a memorable ascent of Acatenango volcano facing erupting Fuego.

A bureaucratic epic across three countries: sweltering border posts, biker encounters in El Salvador, and discovering Nicaragua.

Entering Costa Rica marks a turning point: discovering the lush nature of Arenal and Monte Verde, but also the arrival of the rainy season and high prices.

Crossing Panama under constant rain, moments of doubt in solitude, and preparations for the big voyage to Colombia aboard the Stahlratte sailboat.

The epic journey through the Darien Gap aboard the Stahlratte, a historic sailboat. Loading motorcycles by winch, paradisiacal stopovers in the San Blas Islands, and arrival in South America.

Colombia was a nice surprise, providing a different perspective of traveling by motorcycle and the madness of surviving on two wheels!

Crossing the Colombian Andes toward Villa de Leyva, Medellín and the coffee region. An intense final stretch filled with roller-coaster mountains, tropical storms and breathtaking landscapes.

Crossing into Ecuador provided a sudden shift to modern highways, orderly traffic, and high-altitude landscapes at 3,500 meters. From the traditional indigenous atmosphere of Otavalo to the stunning European-style architecture of Quito, the country has been a surprising and welcome relief after weeks of challenging Colombian roads.

Leaving Quito, I explore the crater lake of Quilotoa, visit the outdoor hub of Baños, and enjoy the colonial charm of Cuenca while preparing for the logistical challenge of Peru.

Crossing into Peru brings a dramatic shift in landscape and culture, from frozen mountain passes to dusty desert cities, noisy urban ‘horn concerts,’ and inspiring encounters with long-distance cyclists and ancient ruins.

A choice to take the mountain route leads to a harrowing solo journey across treacherous cliffs and broken bridges, resulting in a damaged suspension and a forced change of plans to reach Santiago for repairs.

Racing against a failing rear suspension, I traverse the arid deserts of southern Peru. While the landscapes offer a stark, unique beauty, the logistical strain forces me to bypass Cusco and Bolivia in a sprint toward repairs in Chile.

Crossing into Chile feels like stepping back into Europe. After a white-knuckle ride on a blown rear shock, I reach Santiago for much-needed repairs and decide to take a surprise detour back to Montreal for the holidays.

With the bike repaired but my motivation flagging, I make a spontaneous dash into Argentina’s wine country. After a week of Malbec and mountain passes, I prepare ‘La Gorda’ for storage and fly back to Montreal for a snowy holiday break.

Returning to Santiago after six weeks in Canada, I face the challenge of reconnecting with the road. With new front and rear suspension finally installed, ‘La Gorda’ and I are ready to leave the big city behind and begin the long-awaited journey into Patagonia.

Re-entering the rhythm of the road, I head south from Santiago through the lake district. From wild camping by Lake Colbún to the motorcycle mecca of MotoCamp Pucón, I’m shaking off the city blues and preparing for the rugged terrain of Patagonia.

The Carretera Austral is one of the most mystical routes on the planet. From ferry logistics and long waits to the grueling challenges of deep gravel, this section pushed me to my limits. However, the sublime Patagonian scenery made every difficult kilometer worth the effort.

Crossing into Argentina via the remote Paso Rodolfo Roballos brought a stark change in scenery and a battle with the legendary Patagonian winds. From navigating deep, unstable gravel on the infamous Ruta 40 to witnessing the sheer scale of the Perito Moreno glacier, this leg of the journey was defined by isolation, physical challenges, and breathtaking natural wonders.

Reaching the end of the world on February 4, 2017, I celebrated a 25,736 km journey from Montreal to Ushuaia—an emotional milestone followed by a grueling, 3,000 km dash across the desolate Ruta 3 to Buenos Aires.

After 29000 km on the road, I decided to spend 3 weeks in Buenos Aires, where my trip will end. Here is a look at the city and the process of shipping the bike back home.