- 2016-09-28 - Day 17 - Guanajuato, GT to San Miguel de Allende, GT (95 km - 1:30 hrs)
- 2016-09-29 - Day 18 - San Miguel de Allende, GT
- 2016-09-30 - Day 19 - San Miguel de Allende, GT to Puebla, PU (423 km - 5:45 hrs)
- 2016-10-01 - Day 20 - Puebla, PU to Oaxaca, OA (341 km - 4:00 hrs)
- 2016-10-02 - Day 21 - Oaxaca, OA to San Cristobal de las Casas, CH (617 km - 9:00 hrs)
- 2016-10-03 - Day 22 - San Cristobal de la Casa, CH
Another short riding day to get from Guanajuato to San Miguel, and I decided to take the longer option, cutting through the mountains via Route 110. A beautiful ride, almost alone, at nearly 2,600 meters above sea level.
San Miguel de Allende: A Unique Microclimate #
Arrival in San Miguel de Allende is quick, the motorcycle is parked in no time, and the traveler is already exploring just a few minutes later.
First observation: this city feels like a kind of microclimate, full of Americans (and probably Canadians), creating a unique vibe that quickly becomes noticeable.
I’m greeted in English, which sounds a bit funny to my ears… Then I notice that the city is packed with beautiful restaurants, chic hotels, and especially gorgeous art shops of all kinds, all harmoniously coexisting with traditional stores and buildings.
Unlike my usual habit, I start my visit through the small streets rather than the central plaza. After only a few minutes of walking, I find myself in a neighborhood perched on the hills with extraordinary houses, often hidden behind locked gates. I even allow myself a visit to a house for sale!
I even meet a very kind lady who has lived here for a few years. She gives me a quick tour of the town and even invites me for a glass of wine in her impressive home. Check out that view!
My two evening outings to restaurants made me notice a strong North American community that knows each other well. I had the chance to chat with a man from Texas while listening to classic American tunes. It was just enough English for me, and I decided that two nights here are enough.
Details and Ambiance #
Here is a small motorcycle workshop just outside the city center. Check out this gem!
A Major Decision #
I also make an important decision for the continuation of my journey.
For the past few days, I’ve felt a bit stagnant in my progress. I discover beautiful places and meet wonderful people, but I have ants in my pants. I want to head south.
I check the route I had planned and realize that my current pace is too slow for my goals. I start making arrangements with the captain of the Stahlratte to move up my Colombia crossing, originally scheduled for November 14.
The only other option offered is October 25, which gives me just over three weeks to reach Panama City. After calculations and consultations (with my girlfriend, Geoffrey, and Chantal), I confirm the change with Ludwig.
Consequence: I won’t go to Mexico City (already visited), and I’ll focus on Puebla, Oaxaca, and a quick entry into Guatemala in 3 or 4 days!
It wasn’t the case today, but it was quite an adventure on the road!
I decided to take the scenic route because the alternative would have doubled my travel time. Thirty minutes after leaving San Miguel, the road turns into a visual disaster, and traffic becomes heavy. Trucks are everywhere.
Road Chaos to Puebla #
I initially take Route 57, then M4D. Disaster! After the interchange, I see traffic slowing to a complete stop. Cellular signal is weak, impossible to check Google Maps.
After a few minutes of waiting, I decide to weave between vehicles, either in the center lane or on the shoulder, and continue calmly for a few kilometers.
A truck driver tells me he’s been waiting for 90 minutes. Another, further ahead, has been stopped for more than 3 hours! Lucky to be on a motorcycle. In a car, I’d still be stuck.
Here’s a short video of the situation:
Puebla: The Anthill #
I arrive in Puebla 90 minutes late. Every visit leaves me amazed by the city’s density. The streets are packed, like an anthill!
I finish the evening at a small, simple resto-bar, El Microbito, with good house music. Full belly for just a few dollars.
Heading to Oaxaca #
Saturday morning, Route 135C is pure joy: mountains, villages, no traffic, and perfect pavement. Talking with my girlfriend, I realize it’s Saturday! What a pleasure to forget about time on vacation.
Arrival in Oaxaca, a city always pleasant with its pedestrian street leading to the Temple of Santo Domingo and lively Zócalo.
The Challenge of San Cristobal de las Casas #
Sunday, departure at 6:45 am for 500 km to San Cristobal. GPS shows 8 hours of travel. The reason? Mountains!
I ride 6 of 9 hours in the curves, temperature dropping from 35°C to 10°C in 20 minutes. I arrive exhausted but find a clean hotel where the motorcycle sleeps… in the living room!
The town is an instant favorite. Relaxed, welcoming, and very colorful.
Incredible, I came across this van I had seen in Panama 3 years ago!
Maintenance of the Machine #
The motorcycle behaves wonderfully. Tires: front 15% worn, rear 60%. I took advantage of the garage to change the front brake pads under the curious gaze of the owner’s family.
Regarding weight, the motorcycle is heavy but manageable. Only my camping gear hasn’t been used yet, but I can’t bring myself to leave it behind.
Mexico Summary #
Mexico is a country of contrasts: poverty and joie de vivre, pollution and incredible resourcefulness. A country built on the sweat of hardworking citizens, often with rudimentary tools.
Statistics:
- Number of days: 20
- Distance traveled: 4,436 km
My impressions:
- Favorite place: Guanajuato
- Disappointment: León
- Most welcoming / best vibe: San Cristobal de las Casas
- Where to spend a month in winter: San Miguel de Allende
- Where I won’t return: Mazatlan
- Surprise: Guanajuato
- Most beautiful road: 40, between Durango and Mazatlan
- Ugliest road: Routes between San Miguel de Allende and Mexico City
- If I could do it again: One or two more nights in Zacatecas
The next post will come from Guatemala!