- 2016-10-04 - Day 23 - San Cristobal de las Casas, CH to Antigua, Guatemala (483 km - 9:00 hrs)
- 2016-10-05 - Day 24 - Antigua, Guatemala
- 2016-10-06 - Day 25 - Antigua, Guatemala
- 2016-10-07 - Day 26 - Antigua, Guatemala (271 km - 5:30 hrs)
I leave San Cristobal de las Casas with excitement, ready to cross an important milestone of my journey: entering Central America.
I am leaving North America for unknown lands that I am certain will be captivating, yet also represent a challenge in logistics and adaptation.
A… peculiar exit from Mexico #
The ride to the border is full of anticipation. Just before crossing the line, I try to refuel. My credit cards are rejected by a stubborn machine. The attendant tries to charge me double in US dollars.
“No señor, no voy a darte el doble.”
After a few minutes of intense negotiation, I pay the correct amount and head toward Guatemala, with slight apprehension as I pass a military checkpoint shortly after.
Border crossing: Welcome to chaos #
Unlike the smoothness of North American borders, here the process is an epic.
Step 1: Mexico (Exit)
Tourist visa must be canceled and the vehicle exit processed at El Banjercito. The officer takes countless photos of La Gorda (the official nickname of my motorcycle for this trip).
Step 2: Guatemala (Entry)
After 4 km of “no man’s land” transformed into an open-air market, I reach Guatemalan controls:
- Fumigation: 11 quetzals
- Immigration: 10 quetzals (a small unofficial bribe, no receipt, but not worth fussing over $2)
- Temporary import: 45 minutes of paperwork
Documents required: passport, registration, driver’s license, proof of exit from Mexico, and fumigation receipt. 160 quetzals later, the sticker is applied to the windshield. La Gorda and I are officially in Guatemala!
The Road to Antigua #
The landscape changes drastically: an impressive mountain range marks the border. Population density skyrockets. The road is a constant challenge: tight curves, ultra-polluting “chicken buses,” animals, and potholes.
Despite the chaos, I have a blast. Four-lane mountain stretches are a rider’s paradise.
Antigua: Historic charm and technical challenges #
I arrive in Antigua around 3:00 pm. The uneven cobblestone streets test the suspension. I finally find lodging at La Posada San Vicente. Problem: the loaded motorcycle is too wide for the doorway!
In 31°C heat, I have to dismantle everything on the sidewalk, under impatient car horns, to get La Gorda into the inner courtyard.
The city is stunning, very touristy, and significantly more expensive than Mexico.
After a long morning jog the next day to explore surrounding villages, I devote time to planning a volcano ascent.
The Ascent of Acatenango #
The highlight: a two-day trek on Acatenango volcano. The goal is to observe its neighbor, Fuego, which is extremely active.
The 5-hour climb passes through farmland, pine forests, and tropical zones before reaching the high mountain. I use my tent for the first time on the trip!
The spectacle is auditory before it is visual. Hidden by clouds, Fuego rumbles. Deep explosions are followed by rocks tumbling down the slopes. Once night falls and the sky clears, glowing lava becomes visible.
The next morning, wake-up at 3:45 am to reach the summit at sunrise.
Guatemala was only lightly touched, but this stage will remain etched in my memory. Tomorrow, the journey continues south: heading for El Salvador.
To be continued!