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Days 26 to 30 - El Salvador - Honduras - Nicaragua - Migration, Customs, Customs, Migration (again)!

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  • 2016-10-09 - Day 23 - Antigua, Guatemala to El Tunco, El Salvador (271 km - 5:30 hrs)
  • 2016-10-10 - Day 24 - El Tunco, El Salvador to León, Nicaragua (495 km - 9:30 hrs)
  • 2016-10-11 - Day 25 - León, Nicaragua to Granada, Nicaragua (140 km - 3:00 hrs)
  • 2016-10-12 - Day 26 - Granada, Nicaragua to San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua (99 km - 1:45 hrs)

The goal on October 9th was to cross the border from Guatemala into El Salvador to reach El Tunco on the Pacific coast.

What strikes me most is a difference compared to much of the route I traveled in the U.S. and Mexico. Here, everything is green! No drought problems, and rivers flow freely.

Entry into El Salvador: Marked by helpfulness
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Exiting Guatemala went relatively smoothly, despite a somewhat hidden customs post on the opposite lane. In El Salvador, a system outage slowed the procedure, but after an hour, I was finally on the road.

El Salvador Road 1
El Salvador Road 2
El Salvador Road 3
El Salvador Road 4
El Salvador Road 5
El Salvador Road 6
El Salvador Road 7
El Salvador Road 8

In El Tunco, I was welcomed by two passionate local bikers. One of them even paid my toll entering the village! We ended up sharing several beers and discussing travel. Their advice: head straight to Nicaragua.

Biker Encounter 1
Biker Encounter 2
Biker Encounter 3

Overnight stay at Hotel Mopelia.

Hotel Mopelia 1
Hotel Mopelia 2
El Tunco Atmosphere

The Border Marathon: Honduras and Nicaragua
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On the morning of the 10th, departure at 5:30 am. Crossing all of Honduras in 3 hours is a tactical mission. Bureaucracy rules: forgotten documents, missing signatures, and sweltering heat.

But the worst was yet to come at the entrance to Nicaragua:

  1. Heat: Over 40°C in offices without air conditioning.
  2. Queues: 90 minutes to exit Honduras, then an eternity to enter Nicaragua.
  3. Paperwork: Inspection, forms, pre-verification, mandatory insurance…

The highlight of the day: having to pay 20 córdobas (local currency) without having any. A young local helped me in exchange for a US dollar, thrilled with the deal.

Nicaragua Border 1
Nicaragua Border 2
Nicaragua Border 3
Nicaragua Border 4
Nicaragua Border 5
Nicaragua Border 6
Nicaragua Border 7
Nicaragua Border 8
Nicaragua Border 9
Nicaragua Border 10
Motorbike in the Rain

León and Granada
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León was a small disappointment, with streets in poor condition. I stayed at “Leo y Pinita,” a simple but welcoming B&B.

León 1
León 2
León 3
León 4
León 5
Hotel León
La Gorda Parked

On the way to Granada, I notice drivers here ride with lights off, even in storms. My Xenon lights intrigue them and earn me countless flashes!

Nicaragua Road

Granada leaves a much better impression: colonial, restored, and warm. I find refuge at Hotel de Sonrisas, run by a woman from Alberta.

Granada 1
Granada 2
Granada 3
Granada 4
Granada 5

San Juan del Sur
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The last Nicaraguan stop: San Juan del Sur. First night in a hostel (Hostel Esperanza) to save budget. The town doesn’t particularly excite me, but La Gorda has a nice view for the night.

San Juan del Sur 1
San Juan del Sur 2
San Juan del Sur 3
San Juan del Sur 4
San Juan del Sur 5
La Gorda Overlook

Tomorrow, the direction is Costa Rica. Borders are absurd, but I’ve decided to laugh about it!

To be continued!