- 2016-10-12 - Day 31 - San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua to La Fortuna, CR (275 km - 6:00 hrs)
- 2016-10-13 - Day 32 - La Fortuna, CR
- 2016-10-14 - Day 33 - La Fortuna, CR to Monte Verde, CR (118 km - 3:30 hrs)
- 2016-10-15 - Day 34 - Monte Verde, CR to San Jose, CR (152 km - 2:40 hrs)
- 2016-10-16 - Day 35 - San Jose, CR
After a short night in a hostel, I left early to avoid lines at the border. Exiting Nicaragua is a bureaucratic dance: municipal taxes, exit fees, permit cancellation, and multiple inspections (customs then police) before finally reaching the Costa Rican side.
The welcome in Costa Rica is noticeably warmer. After immigration and mandatory insurance ($12 for 3 months), I’m finally on the road, ready to discover the famous Pura Vida.
The Shock: Rainy Season #
But in the span of a few minutes, I would experience the biggest change since leaving Canada: rain!
After a month of dry weather, I literally plunge into the rainy season. Riding in the rain is a torment: reduced visibility, helmet fog, and roads turning into skating rinks, especially in Latin America where asphalt quality is sometimes questionable.
La Fortuna and Arenal Volcano #
In La Fortuna, I found a small cabin at Villas Vista Arenal. What a joy to finally have my own space to hang wet clothes and cook pasta on my camping stove!
The next day, despite persistent rain, I caught a glimpse of Arenal Volcano during a brief clearing. Costa Rica is beautiful but very expensive: groceries cost more than in Canada!
Monte Verde: Nature and Vertigo #
The route to Monte Verde is a delight of curves around Lake Arenal, followed by gravel and dirt sections that are more challenging for La Gorda.
I stayed at Monteverde Inn / Valle Escondido, a vast property with its own hiking trails. The owner, Jona, a biker from Boston, did an incredible job. The observation platforms above the waterfalls are literally vertigo-inducing. On a clear day, you can even see the ocean!
The Cloud Forest #
San José: Urban Chaos #
The descent to the capital was on heavily damaged gravel roads, offering breathtaking views of the ocean. But once on the main road, the calm of nature gives way to chaotic and aggressive traffic.
San José is loud, dirty, and overcrowded… and strangely, as a city lover, I like it! I found my “oasis” in the Barrio Escalante neighborhood (Calle 33), full of trendy bars and restaurants.
On Sunday, the city empties and becomes ghostly, the perfect time to wander before the next stage.
