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Canada2Argentina

Days 36 to 43 - Panama - Reflections in the Rain and the Darién Gap

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  • 2016-10-17 - Day 36 - San José, CR to David, Panama (429 km - 7:45 hrs)
  • 2016-10-18 - Day 37 - David, PA to Las Tablas, PA (306 km - 5:00 hrs)
  • 2016-10-19 - Day 38 - Las Tablas, PA
  • 2016-10-20 - Day 39 - Las Tablas, PA
  • 2016-10-21 - Day 40 - Las Tablas, PA to Anton Valley, PA (188 km - 3:20 hrs)
  • 2016-10-22 - Day 41 - Anton Valley, PA to Panama City, PA
  • 2016-10-23 - Day 42 - Panama City, PA
  • 2016-10-24 - Day 43 - Panama City, PA to Puerto de Carti, PA (150 km - 2:30 hrs)

My time in Costa Rica ended on a social note despite the rain, but my goal of visiting Manuel Antonio National Park was washed out. Next stop: Panama.

Departure for Panama

Bureaucracy in the Rain
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Crossing the Costa Rica–Panama border is a test of patience, especially when soaked. Between the exit tax ($12), Panamanian insurance ($12), and motorcycle fumigation ($1), every step requires paperwork… a real challenge with wet gloves!

Upon entering, the roads are superb (4 lanes), but limited to 80 km/h and filled with speed cameras. I even had my first traffic stop, which turned into a friendly chat with the police officer who was also a biker. No fine this time!

Panama Border 1
Panama Border 2
Panama Border 3
Panama Border 4
Panama Border 5
Panama Border 6
Panama Border 7
Panama Border 8
Panama Border 9
Panama Border 10
Panama Border 11
Panama Border 12

David and the First Doubts
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Arriving in David under a downpour, I had to book an expensive hotel just to dry my belongings using a fan lent by the receptionist.

David in the Rain

Thanks to the ADVRider forum, a reader generously offered his house by the sea in Las Tablas. Arrival was tumultuous: water leaks, roads turned into mud and asphalt skating rinks, night driving… For the first time on this trip, I doubted myself.

“What brilliant idea made me come get rained on for days on end?”

But this is the heart of the challenge. I ate overcooked pasta, laughed alone at the absurdity as water flooded the floor, and realized this is precisely what I came for: unpredictability and resilience.

Las Tablas 1
Las Tablas 2
Las Tablas 3
Las Tablas 4
Las Tablas 5
Las Tablas 6
Las Tablas 7
Las Tablas 8
Las Tablas 9
Las Tablas 10
Las Tablas 11

El Valle de Anton: Vertigo and Sloths
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To reach El Valle de Anton, I took secondary roads with the steepest slopes I’ve ever seen, even in Corsica! I stayed at Casa Mariposa, run by a passionate Swiss owner. The highlight: observing sloths up close in her garden.

El Valle 1
Sloth

Panama City: Luxury and Motorcycle Passion
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Entering the capital is impressive. Before enjoying the comfort of the DoubleTree (my little luxury before the sailboat), I visited Touratech Panama. I met enthusiasts, shared a parrillada, and answered tons of questions about my journey to Colombia. La Gorda even received a VIP wash!

Panama City Skyline 1
Panama City Skyline 2
Touratech 1
La Gorda Wash
Touratech Atmosphere 1
Touratech Atmosphere 2
Touratech Atmosphere 3

I also explored Casco Viejo, the colonial neighborhood undergoing renovation. A striking contrast with the modern skyscrapers.

Casco Viejo Panorama
Casco Viejo 1
Casco Viejo 2
Casco Viejo 3
Casco Viejo 4
Casco Viejo 5
Casco Viejo 6
Casco Viejo 7
Casco Viejo 8

Central America Recap
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These 21 days mark the end of my Central America leg. While Guatemala was an absolute favorite (Antigua!), Costa Rica and Panama disappointed me somewhat due to high prices and weather.

  • Favorite place: Antigua, Guatemala
  • Surprise: Trek in Antigua
  • Best road: Leaving Santa Helena, Costa Rica
  • Distance covered: 3100 km in 21 days

Tomorrow, I board the Stahlratte. No signal for 5 days. See you in South America!