- 2016-09-17 - Day 6 - Linares, NL to Galeana, NL (70 km - 1:30 hrs)
- 2016-09-18 - Day 7 - Galeana, NL to Real de Catorce, SL (241 km - 6:30 hrs)
- 2016-09-19 - Day 8 - Real de Catorce, SL
It’s amazing how quickly I have to write everything down! I want to share what I live and feel before new adventures wash the old ones away.
Mountain Serenity in Galeana #
Saturday, I left Linares late to head toward Galeana. I took the mountain road instead of the highway—a superb choice full of curves and zero traffic. I was briefly overtaken by three BMWs, which woke up the driver in me! However, carrying 40 kilos of luggage makes cornering a bit more of a workout than it is for them.
I reached Galeana and decided to stop early.
In fact, I just decided, for no other reason than I felt like it, to spend the rest of the day and night here!
I found a simple hotel for $13. Walking through the village, I realized I was the only non-Mexican there. The “pueblo” is humble and crowded, but people seem genuinely happy. Also, a note on Mexican fridges: they are incredibly effective. Every beer or milk I buy is always muy fresca—perfectly cold!
The Road to Real de Catorce #
Sunday morning, I decided to take the scenic route through San Jose de Las Joyas. The road was entirely gravel and severely run down in places. It took me 3 hours to drive 75 kilometers. I don’t consider myself an expert off-road rider, so I took no unnecessary risks, especially since I’m alone.
The reward was incredible scenery and a high-altitude plateau filled with cows that reminded me of the Camino de Santiago in France.
Eventually, I hit the road to Real de Catorce—a long stretch made entirely of smooth, slippery stones.
The Tunnel Stalemate #
I arrived at the entrance of the famous tunnel (over 2,500m altitude) only to be told it was closed to motor vehicles for the day! Because it was the end of a holiday weekend, the tunnel was reserved for horse-drawn carriages evacuating tourists. Apparently, horses don’t like the noise of engines.
I had no plan B. After some negotiation and 200 pesos ($13), I found a young man willing to help. We tied my 340kg bike to a cart pulled by a sturdy mule.
The 25-minute journey through the dark, bumpy tunnel was a physical battle to keep the bike upright at such a slow speed. Emerging into the sun was a relief, but then I had to navigate the steep, crowded, stone-paved streets of the village.
Ghost Town Magic #
Real de Catorce is an incredible place. I found a clean room for a great price and spent the evening wandering with a cold beer.
Monday was much quieter. I went for a 10 km hike across the mountain range, rewarding me with a view of a plateau stretching to the horizon.
It was a perfectly relaxed day to soak in the culture and prepare for tomorrow’s ride.