- 2016-09-20 - Day 9 - Real de Catorce, SL to Zacatecas, ZA (314 km - 4:00 hrs)
- 2016-09-21 - Day 10 - Zacatecas, ZA to Durango, DU (292 km - 2:30 hrs)
Tuesday morning, I left Real de Catorce in a much quieter atmosphere than when I arrived. After getting help to lift my bike off its side stand on the steep slope, I navigated back through the Ogarrio tunnel to regain a semblance of civilization.
I drove west for three hours across the Altiplano—one straight line stretching for 100 km—before turning toward Durango.
The Zacatecas Surprise #
Life sometimes surprises us and the city of Zacatecas, which I was not supposed to visit, proved to be a great find.
Sitting at 2,400 meters above sea level, Zacatecas is clean, easy to explore, and filled with splendid colonial buildings and small parks. I found a simple hotel, Hotel Posada Tolosa, right in the historic center.
The streets intertwine in a charming, disorganized fashion. I spent hours getting lost in the narrow alleys and quiet plazas.
I ended the evening at Garufa, an Argentinian restaurant with a beautiful terrace adjacent to a quiet park. Despite exceeding my daily budget, the meal and the company—a Mexican lady and a German traveler—made it worth every peso.
Onward to Durango #
The following day, I headed toward Durango to position myself for the legendary Route 40 (the road to Mazatlán). The ride was a biker’s paradise: green hills, farmland, blue skies, and a perfect 25°C.
However, Durango itself was a bit of a disappointment after the beauty of Zacatecas. It felt polluted, noisy, and chaotic.
I found a room for $15 that came with a fountain of cold water. Since I use an ultraviolet filter for tap water (to avoid plastic bottles), I rarely get to drink cold water on the road. It was a simple, yet profound, moment of happiness.
I spent the evening exploring the city’s pedestrian zones and found a great spot called The Beer Company. A cold craft beer and a $2 burger completely changed the dynamic of a frustrating day.
The Mystery of the Zapaterias #
Durango Gallery #
I am continuously amazed by the sheer number of specialized shops in Mexican cities. In Durango, I lost count of the Zapaterias (shoe stores) on my way to the center. I am starting to think Mexicans are born with more than two feet! Electronics, linens, wedding items—thousands of small businesses line the streets for miles.
Tomorrow, I tackle the curves of Route 40 to reach the ocean!